Bruges (Brugges) Triennale May 5th – September 19th 2018: LIQUID CITY

 

Skyscraper, StudioKCA
Photograph copyright Shaun Villiers Everett 2018

As part of a planned trip to ‘Flander’s Fields’, I took some time out to look in on the opening week of the latest Bruges’ event, which gets underway, and I mean ‘gets’ in its most positive sense. There is certainly no hurrying the curators and artists this year, which include Tomas Saraceno, Renato Nicolodi and Obba (Office for Beyond Boundaries Architecture), the ltter being founded in May 2012, by Sojung Lee and Sangjoon Kwak. Multiple installations are to be found across the city on th theme of Liquid City, this following on from the 2015 theme of Megapolis, which examined the different aspects of global urbanization. The new theme concentrates our minds on how flexible, liquid and resilient can a historic city like Bruges be in a global age, when nothing seems to be certain any longer?

Well, it has to be flexible in early May 2018, since I discovered several of the installations still at thier earliest stages of construction. So if you are thinking of attending, hang on a few weeks for the artists to realise the opening this time is a couple of weeks earlier than the last event in 2015! The wonders of democratic art, or an indexical attack on the senses?

Skyscraper, StudioKCA
Photograph copyright Shaun Villiers Everett 2018

Nevertheless, I found several complete pieces, all merging with the water of the extensive canal system that is Bruges, and all of which, are either partially immersed in or in hybridised contact with some part of the canal water. For instance, I disciovered Skyscraper, the Bruge Whale from StudioKCA, an innovative architecture and design agency led by Jason Klimoski and Lesley Chang, based in Brooklyn, New York, by accident whilst paying homage to Jan van Eyck. Made of 5 tonnes of waste hauled off Hawwaii beaches, it is a constant reminder to the visitor, of the delicate balance the planet finds itself having to cope with and of our guilt in making it that way, and of the mountains of plastic waste affecting the oceans in all parts of our globe.

The work though, is going to also be a ‘fun’ visit for even the most hardened Neanderthal, and the kids seem to love it too! What struck me more than anything else, was the way it leaps out of the water, with the aim of devouring Jan van Eyke, in the square dedicated to this city’s most celebrated master. If striking the master is the price for clearing up the global plastic invasion, then so be it.

The other completed projects included OBBA’s Floating Island, placed up by the Snaggaardbrug to the north. An interactive piece, the local youth are already finding it most convenient in the heat of the city day, and it attracts residents and visitors alike and reminds us that Bruges is a city that has prospered on its contact with the sea, though a maze of canals that reach around the entire city and beyond.

Floating Island, OBBA
Photograph copyright Shaun Villiers Everett 2018

There’s a lot to be said for interactive art, even surreptitiously placed artwork, that appears more functional than formal. Nice move OBBA!

Positioned not more than two stone throws away from the this island oasis is Renato Nicolodi’s Acheron, a floating mass of stone placed aside a bridge and seemingly acting as a barrier to canal traffic. Actually, little traffic is seen in this peaceful region of the canal, and anyway who wants the constant disturbance by those pesky tourist boats!

From the website:

With ACHERON I, an installation in the water, Renato Nicolodi suggests a link between our contemporary society and the mythological underworld. Acheron, derived from the Greek word achos, in mythology

Acheron I, Renato Nicolodi
Photograph Shaun Villiers Everett copyright 2018

symbolizes the ‘river of sorrow’. The mythical river is the way to the underworld, where the dead cross over under the guidance of Charon. Acheron is also a real river in northwestern Greece, which flows partly underground. This natural phenomenon may be the basis for the myth. In Bruges, Nicolodi’s artwork embodies this transition which forms a link between life and death. The surface of the water serves as a boundary. The sculpture is a haven, a gateway, a port between the present, the future and the past.

Probably the most evocative installation, it is however, very understated and could have done with a more prominent position in this year’s event. If peace and tranquility represent the portals to the underworld and the afterlife, then it is certainly well placed from that viwepoint. A very calming installation.

The Bruges Triennale runs to the 19th September 2018. Elsewhere in the city, the Groeningemuseum has Haute Lecture by Colard Mansion. Innovating text and image in medieval Bruges (March 1st 0 June 3rd 2018) presenting the 15th century world of illustrated books (Manuscripts). At the height of Bruges’ success, it was a cosmopolitan, dynamic city, famous for its book production. Luxury books held a central place in international trade and the broader Burgundian culture and many are on display in this temporary exhibition.

Press

 

Rembembrance Day

This is the time of year when you want to remember all those that fell in wars, old and new. That gave their lives for ‘our tomorrows. Today I want to add a new name to that list, not because he died back in WWI, but because he didn’t and I’m here today as evidence of his survival. Why now would I want to add him? Well it is because for 50 years or so, I have not known he was my grandfather. It only came to light from a chance remark my sister made (and she did not know either till very recently) about my mother’s roots. I had a grandfather of course, a large, but very gentle man to me and my sister, or at least I’ve always thought he was my grandfather! I loved him dearly and still do of course now he has been gone for many years. My childhood would not have been the same wiothout him. I have not anyone else to fill his palce in my life. Alas my real grandfather has passed on before I could get to know him, but I have the notion that he fathered my mother (and that’s a story for another time), and hence he became my maternal grandfather.

Alfred, a simple farm labourer, volunteered during 1916 and was posted as a gunner with the Royal Garrison Artillery (RGA) to the Somme during late July 1916. If he had joined any earlier and had been posted a few weeks earlier, he would have seen the July 1st offensive against the German lines and maybe not have lived to tell the tale. As it happens he arrived at a place called Fricourt which as one of the many front lines was a place of both success and failures. As a gunner he would have been subject to much shellfire, but managed to survive the whole of 1916. During this period his unit, the 67th RGA, was also posted to Passiondale and Armens, both hot spots of WWI. He finally surccumed to a shrapnel injury in late 1917 and returned home via one of the many hospital ships, being then discharged during 1918. This is though, not a story of heroism, he was no hero, he has no special honours bestowed upon him, just the campaign medals he received during 1921.

So I will remember him in particular, along with those less fortunate than Alfred, and thank him for my beginnings in life. I’ll never love him as I loved the grandfather I knew of course, but there will now be a place in my memory for him and a reason to still find out more of what happened back then during WWI and how he became to be my garndfather.

Giant of an Article on Europe’s Little People

To place such a creature as Silvio Berlusconi in charge of a major European economy is comical Photo: AP

HD had often noticed how small people make good comedians. Arthur Askey, Ant and Dec, Sid Little (of Large fame), Charlie Drake and so on….so he laughed a lot when this article appeared today(Sunday) adding Berlusconi and Sarkozy to this list of comedians …HD does not normally reprint newspaper stuff, but makes a tiny exception for this Telegraph piece.

‘God: an apology. Several weeks ago, I cited Mr Tony Blair as the finest evidence available to humanity that the deity, contrary to mainstream theological opinion, has an impish sense of humour. Following recent events in Europe, I apologise unreservedly for underestimating Him…’

It would be funny if it was not so serious. The world never relied so heavily on small comedian before, so it’s dangerous it has to rely on such tiny people for its economic success now!

Read the article, it’s so funny!

 

…and tell me, why do these dorks dye their hair so black it’s obvious it is out of the bottle? Argh yes, it’s Grecian 2000, but what good did the Greeks ever do for us?

A few More Snaps…

Ruins in one of the quiet Mani villages. Copyright the author 2003. Agfa APX25
A typical tower house in one of the many villages on the Mani coast. Copyright the author, 2003. Agfa APX25

These are from a visit to The Mani peninsula in Greece in 2003. If you ever wondered why Greece was having so many problems right now with their status at the EU you just need to visit the Peloponnese in which the Mani sits at its southern tip. It is a relaxed, uncluttered place, has a wonderful population that responds positively to the English like no other place on earth. Planning authorities seem not to have ever discovered it and the law means the family and not some faceless official.

Village Ruins in the Mani. Copyright the author 2003. Agfa APX25

Based on the west coast at Kyparissos, there are numerous small villages to explore at your leisure as well as the extensive rugged coastline. It is a naturalist’s paradise with many freshwater outlets and miles of deserted sandy beaches to explore. After stopping for a few minutes at one inlet I saw a kingfisher and a swimming grass snake(Natrix natrix). No waiting endless hours for nature here. The swallowtail butterfly, sand lizards and gekkos are all in abundance.

Further along the coast lies Gytheio near which lies a splendid turtle beach. Choose the right time of the year and experience the turtles returning to the sea at night. Look for the rusting shipwreck and you are there! Gytheio itself is a great place to stop off to watch the local fishermen and take the sun on the harbour front amongst the many boats and nets. The nearest airport is at Kalamata. It’s also a military airport so do not expect too much in the way of services. From here the Mani is some 2 to 3 hours drive through the mountains.

 

Here is a great review of the Mani where the late travel writer, Patrick Leigh Fermor, called home.

 

HD

German Right on the rise Again!!!

Soon Germany will have to make a decision whether to stay in the Euro or not. Germany is getting economically strong again. A strength historians and others have said would cause security issues across the world again. Be afraid, very afraid.

Today it is reported that racist remarks have once again entered the language of the German economy.

“All Jews share a particular gene, Basques share particular genes, that differentiate them from others.” Thilo Sarrazin, a member of the six-man board at the powerful Bundesbank

Margaret Thatcher once said of the reunification:

“We do not want a united Germany,” she said. “This would lead to a change to postwar borders, and we cannot allow that because such a development would undermine the stability of the whole international situation and could endanger our security.”

As HD said, be afraid, very afraid.

Thatcher report

Thilo Sarrazin report

The veil and niqab controversy and the historical perspective

With France possibly on the verge of banning the wearing of niqabs in public and the UKIP calling for a ban over here in the UK, HD thought a republishing of this piece from 2006 was relevant:

‘…In the spring of 1938, Lord Athlone and Princess Alice made their way across the deserts of Central Arabia on the first ever Royal visit to what we now know as Saudi Arabia. Princess Alice, to placate local hostilities, ‘donned the Arab veil and robes in deference to the custom of a very masculine country…’ state The Times report of the visit. During the Royal visit, the Saudi monarch, King Abdul Aziz dined for the first time with a woman and treated the Royal visitors to a banquet of ten sheep for the occasion, so the report continues.
Amongst much political consternation in Europe, especially from Mussolini who thought that Britain was ‘interfering in the politics of Asia’ the Royal visit was an apparent success. The somewhat minor point concerning the Princess covering the female body in the presence of men, did not come under any further public deliberations back home. It was after all the Saudi custom and the Royals obliged their esteemed host.
The current controversy concerning the wearing of the veil in the UK is a fascinating contrast to the distant times of pre-WWII Britain and the flexibility of Royal protocol where prudent to adjust, can actually pay off. It is also a poignant reminder of how times have changed in both our own country and elsewhere.
In 1933 another Times correspondent reported on Turkey’s tenth year celebrations of becoming a republic. The reporter comments on what they described as an ‘astonishing change in the position of Turkish women’. Throwing off ‘Muslim medievalism’, the report continues, they have discarded the wearing of the veil in the cities and were also beginning to abandon it in the villages too. The most important aspect of the then contemporary status of Turkish women was their entry into ‘almost every aspect of national life’. Admirable as this sounds, I do suspect that compared to today’s Turkey, the Turkish women of 1933 must have appeared to be somewhat oppressed.
Even so, these two reports highlight some of the changes that the Islamic world has undergone during the twentieth century in the name of emancipation. Through the 1960’s and 70’s the rise of feminism added fervour to the progress of women across the globe and shedding of the veil continued at a pace.
By the 1980’s, in some parts of the Islamic world, the veil started to re-appear as standard dress. This has been attributed to the rise of Islamic fundamentalism in countries such as Iran and Egypt. Since then it has progressed almost unabated across the Islamic.
The current veil controversy in the UK, may denote an act of faith on behalf of muslim women, but on the other hand it connotes a growing concern over the rapid progress of Islamic fundamentalism across Europe. The metaphor of the veil, as I have stated it previously, has therefore deeper and more serious implications to Britain, Europe and the rest of the Western world.
Britain today, is in a crisis of identity. I do not doubt the complexity of the situation or underestimate the difficulties in solving our problems. As an Englishman, I have values that were firstly grafted onto me by my family and my small town community in which I grew up through the 1950’s and 60’s. If time had stopped at 1969, say, I think the definition of being British would have been an easier task than it is today.
Since then, exposure to a multicultural society in cities such as Leeds and London, have led me to rethink on a broader basis my opinions on what it is to be British. Being objective though, is still not an easy task even for someone who has a wide life experience. As Thomas Nagel points out in his text “View From Nowhere’, it is ‘…objectivity [that] is a method of understanding. It is beliefs and attitudes that are objective in the primary sense…’. It is these attitudes and beliefs that seem to be at the heart of our current dilema.
I no longer possess the same misconceptions I once might have nurtured concerning ‘difference’. When I am confronted with the question about multiculturalism, I cannot understand why the question is even being asked let alone respond in anything but a constructive way. All societies progress through integration and Britain is no exception. If there is a failure to integrate then we are all in the wrong. It cannot be a one-sided affair. Therefore attitudes have to change on all sides.
Where I do have a real problem is in the expansion of fundamentalist views, whether they be Islamic, Christian or for that matter, any other narrow-based faith viewpoint. I find it hard to be objective in the light of these narrow sometimes backward looking views. I must also make the point that looking back is not a one-sided affair either. If the Islamic fundamentalist view is seen to be towards medievalism then it can be no surprise that others might cite the more traditional western approach to Britishness and its historically learnt values of behaviour. Thus I can see where the veil is metaphorical and hangs limply between the two conflicting viewpoints. In order to lift the veil, again attitudes must change.
The British government have cleverly opened the real debate and in contrast, Islam has seen the plot. My suspicion is that the government aims are more about swinging majority opinion towards the more traditional and therefore Christian values of society than they are towards the acceptance of the multiculturalists status quo. Only time will tell…’  first published in October 2006